Category Archives: Landscape Maintenance
General landscape care tips.
Not going to be a long post today, just a quick note to help some of my friends out there feel better about their gardening skills. I just wanted to set some minds at ease. To those of you who have old yews, rhodies, or other evergreens that don’t appear to have survived the winter, YOU ARE NOT THE ONLY ONES! I talked in the fall about the importance of watering in the winter months when possible and here is the proof of it’s necessity. Many, many of you have serious damage to old, established evergreens which you have never given any special care before during the winter. My point is you’ve been lucky till now, LOL!
Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying I told you so, (but I did tell you so). I’m just saying that many of you have recently become Mother Nature’s latest victims. Your evergreens have been assaulted with winter burn due to lack of moisture during the long dry months and crazy temps. And sadly, there is a very high probability that all your precious plants have “shuffled off their barky coil”. Many rhodies out there look just like the sad little guy in the picture. And even his distinguished big brothers and sisters look quite similar. Many coniferous shrubs do appear to still have a spark of life in them, but will they ever fully recover is very difficult to predict.
As you can see from this photo, their does still appear to be a glimmer of hope here, albeit very slight. In this case, the best recommendation I have is that you immediately begin DEEP watering and get some good evergreen fertilizer or one with a high nitrogen content (the first of the 3 numbers listed on the package) according to the fertilizer instruction.
I would throw out there, that I don’t suggest trimming plants or worse than that, replacing them, until your certain they are not going to recover. I know it can be tough to except since they tend to be unattractive while injured, but give them the summer to recover and if you still don’t see and results, then replace them either that fall or spring of the next season. That being said if a coniferous evergreen completely drops its needles, it is NOT likely to recover.
Now, another family of plants that seems to have taken a massive hit this winter is roses. However, I would certainly like to reassure you; just because all the old canes on your rose are grey and break easily, the plant is certainly NOT deceased. Many roses will die back to the ground during difficult winters. Then they will produce new shoots far down on old canes or even directly up from the ground off of old healthy root systems. After you begin to see the new shoots feel free to trim back the old canes. Again though, your going to want to feed with a good fertilizer (either a balanced mix or one specifically designed for your particular species of rose.) And of course, get the poor little guy some water!
Anyway, that’s all I’ve got today. Like I said, I just wanted you to know that your not alone. And as always, GOOD LUCK AND KEEP GROWING!!!
Well, for sure Mother Nature has been crazy this year, but we can’t let her Bipolar tendencies ruin our Spring. It’s time to get out and get your green on. Many of you have got your gardens in full swing and hopefully they are doing well. Potatoes are going in the ground. I’ve got a cousin who had a picture on Facebook of the back of her minivan loaded with chopped up seed potatoes…..that may be a bit much, but at least I’ll know who to call when I run out. Onions and asparagus are growing as well. Don’t forget that you want to let your asparagus grow for a couple seasons before harvesting the first time. After that, it’s fair game! Spring cleanup projects are moving along and my crews have been busy as can be raking leaves, digging edges, and spreading mulch……now if I can just find the motivation to clean up my own yard. Might have to just pony up some dough to Deman to get him out there! Either way, here is a list of tasks that your landscape probably needs to have completed and some guidance on proper techniques for getting them done.
First and foremost is the obvious one; just like your yard, you want to get as much of the leaves out as possible. Yes leaves are good from one perspective. They do break down and return organic material to the soil. However, if they are left to decompose on top of your perennials that are trying to break through, they can actually choke those new little plants out. If you want to leave some leaves (pun intended) in the landscape, I would recommend that you till the leaves in a bit between your plants but clear out the spaces where you know you got flowers planted. This will rebuild the soil, but also protect the flowers you’ve invested your time and money into. Personally, when it comes to removing leaves, I absolutely LOVE my blower/vac. It is in my indispensable tools category. Gas or electric is irrelevant (although mine is gas). The only down side to this tool, is that if the leaves are wet, it doesn’t work quite as well as when they are dry. On the upside, it is easier than raking, and they mulch the leaves as they vacuum allowing for the use of less leaf bags, or trips to the dump. Trust me, this little tool can be a real back-saver.
The next little back saver I would offer up would be an edging machine. However, if you don’t have much landscape to edge, I wouldn’t recommend renting one of these bad boys. This does bring us to our next step though, which is to re-edge your bed. Assuming your landscape beds have a “natural edge” trench as a border, this will likely need to be touched up every season or two to fight back encroaching grass. First, you want to use a hard rake to pull back all the good mulch to be re-used after the new edge is dug. Next, get yourself a nice sharp straight edge spade and stick that guy in the soil along the edge of your bed about 4-5 inches deep. Put your foot flat behind the spade to brace it then dig up the soil and grass that is in the bed area. At this point, your best bet is to throw that soil and grass in a wheelbarrow to be disposed of either somewhere in the yard or taken to the dump. You don’t want to just toss it into the beds because the grass roots will simply take holder deeper into the bed creating more of a mess. Your goal is to create around a 4 inch deep trench along the edge of the bed to keep mulch in and grass out!
Once you’ve created a nice new barrier between your lawn and landscape it’s time to do a little preventative maintenance. I highly suggest that you put down a per-emergent herbicide at this stage of the process. Something like, Preen or Treflan weed preventer with added fertilizer would be a good choice. In most cases these are not terribly expensive and they will help on two different fronts. The fertilizer will give your plants a nice meal to kick the season off, and the herbicide should prevent a weed barrier that will last at least a couple months into the season. Many of these products come in an easy to use containers with shaker lids for quick applications. I actually suggest you use these products two to three times a season. the plants will appreciate the extra food and your back will again appreciate that it doesn’t have to bend over to pull nearly as many weeds.
However, now it’s time for some “back-breaking” work. Now good way to make this easier, you just have to suck it up and get it done. It’s time to “top-dress” the mulch in your beds!! Whether you are using bag mulch or bulk is not going to make for any less work. Either way you’ve got to get those chopped up little tree pieces over to where you want them. Then you’ve got to dump them and then you’ve got to spread them all over in the bed. It’s going to be a little work no matter how you do it, so be prepared! Now for my brief note on mulch choices: Standard shredded hardwood mulch is by far the cheapest option and for all intents and purposes, the one with the smallest carbon footprint. The dyed mulches of course are simply hardwood mulch that has been dyed……I have NO IDEA with what. While I’m sure it’s not toxic, I don’t know what it is, so keep that in mind. Also, that dye that your paying almost twice the mulch price for is going to fade…..fairly quickly in full sun. Eventually it will look the same as the standard un-dyed mulch, so it is really worth the cost. If I’m going to spend the extra cash, I’m going for the cedar mulch. It’s going to take longer to decay, it’s a unique color, and it’s going to have a cool cedar fragrance for at least a while. Also, since cedar doesn’t decay as fast, it tends to not attract insects like other mulches may. Although their are numerous other options for mulch, the last one I am going to touch on is cypress mulch. Visually cypress is very similar to cedar. However, cypress can only be harvested at certain times of the year and is typically not replanted. It is slower growing than cedar which makes it a much less sustainable resource. Considering the point of landscaping is to beautify the environment, using a non sustainable resource seems a little hypocritical to me, but that’s all I’m going to say about that, now back to our regularly scheduled programming. Once you’ve got your mulch to your beds, the best way to spread it, in my opinion, is with a hard rake. Once you’ve got it all raked out, take your rake, turn the tines over and use the back to tamp the new mulch level. This will give a much cleaner appearance to your finished landscape.
After leveling all your mulch, you should get a hose out and soak it all down very well. This will activate the fertilizer and will also create a moisture layer for your young plants. It will also help keep that light mulch from blowing everywhere across your yard, which is a definite plus considering how much work you just put in. And that is it, in a nut shell. Different landscape may require some additional steps such as cutting down grasses or dividing certain perennials, but for the most part, these few tasks will keep your landscape looking fantastic year after year. So get out your rake and let’s clean up our landscapes together. I’ll see you out there, and as always:
GOOD LUCK AND KEEP GROWING!!!!
Okay, so I discussed caring for your evergreens recently, and I’m sure some of you thought I was just neglecting the deciduous tree’s. Not true at all, I just wanted to bring up the evergreens’ first because they could potentially perish from winter damage while deciduous tree’s typically do not. That is not to say that they can not receive winter damage though, so just what are we up against?
Well, first of all let me reiterate that almost all tree’s need to be well watered prior to the ground freezing. This is especially true for young or newly planted deciduous (LEAFY) tree’s just as evergreens. The reason being they just don’t have the root structure to search for water when they begin to break dormancy. Beyond that there are a few other things to consider with regard to your deciduous trees’. Thin barked and young tree’s are highly susceptible to two major winter damage issues. While these are not the only things that can affect tree’s during the winter months they are the most common problems. The first one we will discuss is a problem called WINTER SUN SCALD.
Winter Sun Scald is bark damaging issues. It is most commonly seen on tree’s such as Maple, Apple, Honeylocust, Ash, and Willow however any young tree with undeveloped, thin bark is susceptible. What I mean by thin bark is a tree that has yet to achieve that CORKY appearance we commonly attribute to tree bark. Sun Scald is seen on the south and/or west sides of tree trunks and caused by the temperature variances from day to night hours. Basically, as the day progresses and the temperatures rise, the previously dormant phloem cells (these are cells in a tree’s vascular system that carry nutrients down to the roots) warm and this triggers a “WAKE UP” reaction. Those cells mistake the temps as an alarm clock to break dormancy. Unfortunately they failed to get the memo that Mother Nature has a sense of humor. So as the night temps drop down again, those cells are caught “with their bark down” and basically freeze to death. This creates an unsightly wound on the trunk of the tree where the cells essentially stop developing. While this will typically not kill the tree it does create a myriad of possible problems the worst of which is that it creates a point of entry for disease or damaging pests. So while a borer insect may ultimately be attributed with the death of a tree, it probably found it’s way in through the sun scald damage.
The second common winter issue for deciduous trees is known as FROST CRACKING. Unlike Sun Scald which will be permanently visible, frost cracks typically close back upper during summer months. Frost cracks also generally appear on the south or west side of a trunk. However, this damage can even affect older corky barked tree’s. Frost Cracks are also caused by warming cells although, in this case the cells don’t generally die. Basically, as the daytime temps warm them, the cells begin to expand. Then when dusk rolls around and temps go back down the cells cool again. As they cool, they contract. The outer cells cool faster than the inner cells and as a result, as the outer cells contract faster, they are pulled apart and cause vertical cracks along the bark. Cracks can easily be several feet long and often will sound like a gunshot when the crack first occurs. Generally, the cracks will close back up during the summer, although once a crack occurs it will typically reappear during winter months from then on. Frost Cracks are most common on Maple and Sycamore although any thin barked tree would be susceptible.
There is no perfect way to prevent frost cracks on large tree’s but fortunately there is something you can do to help prevent it and Sun Scald on younger tree’s. While many orchard growers actually whitewash their tree’s during the winter months to help protect them, this is not commonly used in residential settings as it dramatically changes the appearance of the landscape. The most common practice in a typical landscape is to use a crepe paper like material known as tree wrap. Basically to apply the wrap, you begin at the bottom and work your way up, overlapping as you go to completely wrap the trunk all the way up to the first branch knuckle. I don’t recommend using the plastic trunk protectors as they will leave a gap where you install them and that reduces their efficacy in my opinion. Now, remember this important point; you need to remove the tree wrap as soon as the weather begins to warm. Leaving this wrap on the tree will hold moisture against the trunk during the wet spring months and also creates a nice warm home for insects and pests during summer months. So what was originally intended to help could cause even more damage if not maintained.
I’ve got one more recommendation for you, although this one doesn’t really have anything to do with bark damage. It really is a good idea to remove at least a couple feet of sod from the base of your tree’s and install mulch instead. The reason for this is the mulch acts as a blanket in the winter to help keep roots warm, but then will help retain moisture during spring and summer. It will also help keep weeds down and will prevent the need to try to mow or weed whip around the base of the tree and potentially damage the trunk or exposed surface roots. However, only mulch to within an inch or two of the trunk so that (like the wrap) the mulch doesn’t hold moisture against the trunk of the tree and create rot. I like to create a little moat around the trunk of the tree. Then if I am hand watering I can set the end of the hose in the moat and set it to a slow flow and the moat helps to keep the water from running off.
I hope this gives you an idea on how to maintain your young tree’s so that you get years of enjoyment from them. Properly placed large shade trees can help decrease utility costs as well as increase the value of your property. They provide homes for wildlife and shade on a sunny afternoon. Trust me when I say, they are worth taking a few minutes to protect.
GOOD LUCK AND KEEP GROWING!!!
Well, according to Weather.com our days of 60 degree temps are coming to a close here in the Omaha area. It appears the average daily high for the month of November will be just under 48 degrees (F). This means its high time you prepare your evergreens for winter. You should make sure to give all your evergreens a good deep watering prior to the ground freezing. As a general rule plants need about 10 gallons of water for every inch of caliper (so a 2 inch caliper tree would need about 20 gallons of water) Caliper is the width of the tree trunk about 12″ from the ground (unless it’s a large, established tree, then it is done at chest height). If your hand watering with just a hose a good rule of thumb is about 5 minutes at medium pressure equals about 10 gallons of water. Thus if we water our 2″ tree for 20 minutes at medium pressure it should be getting a good drink. Plants “sweat” just like humans do. This primarily occurs through the leaf structure. With evergreens this would be the needles, which they don’t lose like your other plants. This opens the door to a problem known as Winter Burn. They are “sweating” but the ground is frozen so they aren’t able to take up water through the roots. Don’t think that just because there is snow on the ground that the plant is getting water. If the ground is frozen so is the moisture. To counter this we us a chemical called an ANTI DESICCANT. The best way to describe this is that it acts as a wax to coat the evergreens needles or leaves to help slow the “sweating” during periods when little or no water is available (although it is not actually a wax). The best time to apply anti desiccant is when the temps are starting to stay below 50 degrees during mid-day. However you want to make sure there is no threat of rain or frost within 24 hours (the chemical may not fully adhere). The other thing to keep in mind is that warm temps can “melt” the chemical off as well, so you may need to re-apply later in the season to maintain protection. It’s not difficult, you simply spray onto the plant to the point of runoff. This should help keep your plant from losing water when none is available to replenish it. Keep in mind that even if it is “winter” if we don’t have temps below freezing and still aren’t getting any moisture, you’re going to NEED TO GIVE YOUR PLANTS A DRINK! Don’t just forget about them because your sprinkler system is off and you don’t feel like dragging a hose. This could be a costly decision. Also, DON’T FORGET YOUR BROADLEAF EVERGREENS! Not all evergreens have needles (and not all needle tree’s are evergreens for that matter). Plants like Boxwood, Yew, Rhododendron and Holly are especially susceptible to winter burn and should be treated as well. An added bonus of your anti desiccant is that you can even use it on your Holiday Cut Greens such as live wreaths or table center pieces to help them last longer as well. Even your “live” Christmas tree would benefit greatly from a good coating. Although I would hope that the folks you purchase the tree from took care of this for you. Might be a good thing to ask when deciding who to purchase your tree from. GOOD LUCK AND KEEP GROWING!!